Written by Paul DeCampo

Although rarely found in the wilds of Ontario, pawpaw (Asimina triloba) trees are spreading across the local landscape and the delicious fruits are starting to appear in our markets. Native to the Carolinian biosphere, these small to medium sized trees range from northern Florida to southern Ontario. Being indigenous, pawpaws have co-evolved with the fungi and insects that attack non-native fruits like apples or peaches, so require no pesticides in order to thrive.

Pawpaw, the largest tree-fruit native to North America, has a leathery green skin which turns subtly yellow and then black, similar to a banana. The texture is also banana-like, soft and custardy, although with large inedible seeds about the size of a fava bean. Very aromatic, it is prized for its tropical flavours of banana, mango, pineapple and coconut, depending on the selection and level of ripeness. Pawpaw is classified as Annonaceae botanically along with guanabana, soursop, sweetsop and cherimoya, but is the only temperate member of that family native to North America.

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) is not the same as papaya (Carica papaya), although the latter is sometimes called pawpaw. Devotees of folk music of the USA may be familiar with the traditional song (Way Down Yonder) In the Pawpaw Patch. Six towns in the USA bear the name Pawpaw. Other names include Appalachian Banana, American Custard Apple, Quaker’s Delight and Hillbilly Mango.

The Latin name Asimina comes from the indigenous Miami-Illinois people of the upper Mississippi in what is now the state of Illinois, and the many indigenous names for pawpaw (as seen in the map below) attest to its wide use in pre-colonial times. Archeologists have found many seeds in the middens at sites of pre-contact settlements. There is also evidence of Indigenous peoples’ use of the inner bark for rope making, and the seeds as an insecticide to combat lice.

Pawpaw season in Ontario is roughly mid-September to mid-October. Although they have rarely been available in the industrialized food system, they are increasingly available in public markets. Forbes Wild Foods were among the first to connect with foragers and nurseries to bring pawpaws to market, and Marvelous Edibles and Torrie Warner have planted pawpaw trees and also bring fruit to markets.

If the pawpaw fruits are green, hard and not aromatic, store them in a closed container until the intoxicating aromas indicate ripeness. Once soft and ripe, simply split the fruits and eat the flesh with a spoon. It is best to avoid eating the skin and seeds, as they are mildly toxic.

To propagate seeds, keep them moist, place in a bag with moist soil and cold stratify in the fridge over the winter. In the spring, leave them at room temperature until they start to sprout, then plant shallowly in deep pots to accommodate the long tap root. As the climate warms, pawpaws are becoming viable further and further north, and make a valuable addition to any edible landscape.

OTHER RESOURCES

Carolinean Canada - The Great Pawpaw Parade 2024

Hunting for Paw Paws, Edible Toronto

Pawpaw fruit hanging from a tree in Paul DeCampo’s front yard in York, Ont.